Photographing tiny reptiles and amphibians is a passion that I have been nurturing since the age of 10. Back then, I was just shooting lizards in the back garden with a little point-and-shoot camera. But, as with most things I do, I was not satisfied with the ordinary nature of these subjects, or with the fact that only my overly supportive parents seemed to think my images were amazing.
One day, while flying back home to Malawi from university, I chanced upon an article about pygmy chameleons, specifically the Gorongosa Pygmy Chameleon, found only on the relatively small Mt. Gorongosa in Mozambique. These chameleons had been beautifully documented by photographer and scientist Piotr Naskrecki.
The images inspired me to such an extent that I quit my studies and devoted myself to revealing more of the unseen. There was something about how bizarre these animals looked, and mainly the fact that most people didn't even know they existed, that left me with no other option but to go and document animals like these myself.
As I very quickly noticed, this quest for revealing the unseen came hand in hand with some pretty hardcore adventuring. Hiking, camping and loads of time outdoors. Come wind, rain or sunshine, I was there, and with me was my camera and macro setup.
This is what I've learnt over the years exploring some of the remotest corners of Africa.
Gear Matters, but Ergonomics Matter More
One thing that you will very quickly realise when doing macro photography while you're on the move is that weight is a huge factor.
There's a reason why the never-ending pursuit of ultralight hiking gear is such a thing. The same applies to your photography kit.
When I started out, I ignored this and made all of my decisions purely based on image quality. I purchased a full-frame camera, a heavy lens and a huge flash for macro. The price was good, and the images that weren't ruined by my shaking were spectacular in quality, but the missed opportunities were many.
Bending down a leaf to photograph a frog with one hand while using the other to try and lift a heavy camera without shaking like I'd just had a cup of coffee without any breakfast was near impossible.
I recently made the switch to a Micro Four Thirds system, and I can tell you that this has been one of the best decisions I've ever made. The lighter setup lets me capture at least twice as many successful images as I was getting with my full-frame setup.
For me, this has been one of the biggest lessons of photographing in the field: the best camera isn't necessarily the one that produces the best image on paper. It is the one you can actually carry, handle and use when you're exhausted, wet and standing halfway up a mountain.
Packing Your Macro Photography Gear
Another problem that needed solving was how to store my camera gear.
I quickly realised that most of the destinations I wanted to reach required long and strenuous hikes, often in pouring rain. What also didn't help was that, on many an occasion, you'd find the coolest animals halfway to your destination.
If the camera was buried deep inside my backpack, I'd have the entire contents of my backpack littered across the jungle by the time I was done. Not ideal.
If the camera was simply hanging around my neck, I'd get a pretty severe headache, while branches, rocks, dust and rain would surely ruin this essential piece of equipment.
The solution I found was pretty simple. Many over-the-shoulder pouches have ample space for a camera and flash, and I specifically chose a model that could be buckled to my backpack's waist strap.
That way, when bending over to lift rocks or squeezing through low spaces, the camera wouldn't flop forward against my knees. It also allowed for quick deployment. Zip the bag open and voilà, your camera gear is right there.
The macro diffuser proved to be a bit more difficult to solve.
A diffuser is essential for getting the controlled, natural-looking light that I want from my macro flash, but most conventional diffusers aren't particularly pleasant to carry around on a long hike. They can be bulky, awkward and surprisingly easy to damage.
After four years of research, development and testing, I finally created what I think is the ideal solution. The ProMacro Diffuser slips into a small pouch that clips directly to your camera bag or backpack, ensuring that it stays within reach at all times.
For field-based macro photography, small details like this make a surprisingly big difference. You don't want your lighting system to become the reason you miss the animal you've spent the last three hours hiking towards.
Weatherproofing Your Macro Flash and Camera
This is also essential.
There's nothing worse than reaching the top of a tall mountain after a day's hike, finding your dream species, and then trying to turn on your camera just to find it dead.
Trust me, this absolutely sucks. I've been there.
Most high-quality camera bags come with a rainproof cover, and these are non-negotiable. Get one. They will keep large amounts of rain out and are great for withstanding a light drizzle or short shower.
However, even those won't succeed at withstanding days of monsoon-type rain. And here, unfortunately, you don't have many options. Short of buying a monstrous diving case for your camera, you're going to have to resort to storing your camera safely in your backpack while hiking in such conditions.
A dry bag is the only way to keep your gear completely safe. Get a high-quality one and slip all your electronics in there. Roll it up, stuff that into your backpack, add the backpack's rain cover, and you can hike through almost anything.
Just remember that your camera, lens and macro flash are only as safe as the weakest part of your system. A waterproof camera bag is great, but there isn't much point protecting the camera while leaving batteries, flashes or other electronics exposed.
Dealing with Moisture in the Field
Moisture is still a real issue in any high-humidity environment.
The key to combating moisture is to avoid drastic temperature changes. One mistake I made early on was taking my camera outside and then bringing it straight into an air-conditioned room.
When a cold camera is exposed to warm, humid air, condensation can form on and inside your equipment. This is something you absolutely do not want.
If you have to use air conditioning or temperature control in your accommodation, leave your camera in your backpack for a good few hours so that the temperature can slowly equalise before taking the camera out.
I've ruined a camera like this. Don't be me.
A dozen packs of silica beads, those little inedible packets that seem to appear in everything these days, are also a great addition to the bottom of your camera bag. They can help absorb unwanted moisture and are particularly useful when you're spending long periods in humid environments.
After years of carrying my macro photography setup into wet forests, mountains and remote wilderness areas, I've learnt that protecting your gear is just as important as choosing it.
A great camera, lens, macro flash and macro diffuser are only useful if they are still working when you finally find the animal you've hiked all day to see.
That, ultimately, is what field macro photography is all about: building a setup that doesn't get in the way of the adventure.
